Design(er) Speak: Ong Shunmugam

At Ong Shunmugam, Past meets Present in a most pleasing manner. Focusing on construction, fit and cut instead of passing trends, this local womenswear label brings together traditional and modern design elements to create a refreshing hybrid. Designer Priscilla Shunmugam's latest collection, Guardianship, is a tribute to the body-loving cheongsam. Updating this oriental classic with Western-style details (i.e. colour block paneling and ruffled peplums) and intriguing eco-friendly materials (i.e. soy fibre), the resulting pieces retains the unique cultural symbolism of the cheongsam while being delightfully wearable.

We sat Priscilla down for a quick chat to get to know both her and her fledgling brand a little better!

FS: I am aware that you were a lawyer before starting Ong Shunmugan. Why did you decide to move on to fashion design?

PS: I was trained as a lawyer but I chose early retirement. In 2008 I packed my bags for London with nothing really set in stone, except for an open mind and some savings. The fashion scene there seduced me - I bought a sewing machine on a Friday and on Monday I started a dressmaking course and a few weeks later, I took up pattern cutting.

From a young age, I’ve always liked the risk of creating something and watching people react to it. I suppose having these very innate inklings – the transition into an institution like law school was always going to be a challenge. The transition back however, has been a lot smoother, and that probably says a lot.

So the decision to design womenswear was not pre-meditated, it just came to me when I finally learnt to trust my instincts.

FS: What kind of materials do you use for your designs and do you source for these materials personally?

PS: Fabric plays a key role in all our collections because we capitalise on the lush textures and rich prints readily available throughout the South East Asian region. A central focus is our use of traditional Asian textiles, for example, vintage Javanese batik, Balinese batik, Cambodian ikat and Chinese brocade. We also experiment with technologically advanced fabric like silk blends, organic crepe and soy fibre.

Yes, I source for my materials personally, usually travelling across Asia with not much more than an empty suitcase!

FS: What inspires you and your designs?

PS: The Ong Shunmugam design philosophy references a spectrum of Asian heritage, for example, the Chinese and Indian civilizations, the South East Asian-specific races of the Peranakans and the Malays, or even Japanese, Indonesian and Sri Lankan peculiarities. It is a big pool to tap from but I tread carefully, ever mindful of assumptions or generalizations.

On a personal level, I get my inspiration from the simplest people and the simplest things.

FS: What are your favorite online shopping websites?

PS: Net-A-Porter gets top marks for showing everyone how to shop online like a grown up.

FS: Congratulations on opening your first store at Hong Leong Building! Are there plans to open a second store?

PS: Thank you. We are just settling in, trying to get used to being in Raffles Place. It is funny to have almost every major bank across the street and then us in our modest little corner. Another retail space? Let's see what happens from here.

FS: Are there any designers, whether local, regional or international, who you look up to?

PS: Isn't Tom Ford a genius? I am also a big Rodarte and Preen fan. I really respect younger designers Marios Schwab, Holly Fulton and Mary Katrantzou for their brave yet commercially viable aesthetics. Closer to home, I like Thai labels Milin and Disaya.

Design(er) Speak: Hansel

Hansel by designer Jo Soh is a Singaporean womenswear label known for its quirky playfulness. Jo aspires to design clothes that women of all ages will feel and look fabulous in. We caught up with Jo to find out more about what inspires her, her favorite shopping haunts and what her next collection is about! 

FS: Why did you take up fashion design and what is the story behind Hansel?

JS: I grew up with a very fashionable mother who had a large wardrobe of clothes. I have been exposed to different sort of clothes and understood how appearance can make you feel different about yourself. I decided to pursue fashion design when I was 12 years old. 

FS: We have noticed that many of your collections are based on a signature print of an animal. The previous being a swan and now a donkey! Are you a huge animal lover?

JS: I did not choose to design the prints according to the different animals. With my drawing background, I inject my personality into the brand. Most of the prints are actually drawings that I drew with my wax crayon. 

FS: Can you let us know what your next collection will be about?

JS: Our next collection will be based on the rainbow kueh lapis and it will be launched next year in February. 

FS: We have seen celebrities, such as Katy Perry, wearing Hansel. If you have the opportunity to dress any celebrity, who will it be?

JS: Zoey Deschanel. She is very quirky and loud, just the right Hansel girl. 

FS: What are your fashion pet peeves? What will you NEVER be caught dead wearing?

JS: My pet peeve will be to have a statement like that. I do not care and I always wear things with a sense of humour, even if its tacky.

FS: Which are your favorite countries for shopping and what are some of your favorite stores?

JS: It used to be H&M in Hong Kong and Uniqlo at Japan. If I were to shop overseas, I would try to look for their local designers as every country has its style.

FS: What do you think about the local fashion scene? What do you think are ways we can improve the scene?

JS: I think the local fashion scene are improving. More people are taking up fashion designs. Its an industry that is starting to grow. We have support for each other.  There is more interest in the local market and people are beginning to think of it as a viable career. What we can do better is that designers must focus on creating great products which will be able to convince more people to buy. More and more people can tell the diff between good and bad designs. Quality is one thing. 

FS: Last question, if you have 24 hours to spend alone in a city, where would you go and how would you spend it?

JS: I would love to go anywhere and do nothing but drawing, painting, and reading. Maybe do some sports and have long walks! I would love to go for a month as I have not have many off days.

Design(er) Speak: AL&ALICIA

We don't really like to play favourites, but there is no doubt that AL&ALICIA occupies a special place in our hearts. It also doesn't hurt that their second magazine, A.ZINE Issue.02, on FashionSpace.com is so gorgeous (warning: flipping through it may exacerbate your wanderlust). With AL&ALICIA fast becoming one of the most successful local labels on this little red dot, we caught up with its fabulous founder, Alicia Ong, for a tête-à-tête and picked her brain a little. And this is what she has to say about New York City, the Singaporean fashion scene and more!

FS: Hi Alicia! We at FashionSpace.com really like what you are doing with AL&ALICIA. So, what is the story behind the brand - how did you get started in fashion design?

AO: I never really thought about starting my own label until I returned home from New York, where I studied at Parsons School of Design. I've always loved to sketch and make clothes ever since I was young, and the timing just seemed right after New York. I felt that there was a void in the local fashion industry for edgy high-end street wear and I wanted to offer exclusive, well-designed clothes of uncompromised quality that would appeal to a woman looking for a little difference in her wardrobe. Everything seemed to fall into place and I also received immense support from close friends and family, which gave me the added confidence to take the plunge with AL&ALICIA in 2009. Of course, it helped that I'd spent a couple of years working for Marc by Marc Jacobs, J Crew, DKNY and Richard Chai while I was in New York!

FS: On whom, dead or alive, do you most wish to see your designs on?

AO: The Fanning sisters.

FS: Your last collection, Private Party, is inspired by the magical New York City night. What are the top 5 things you love about the Big Apple?

AO:
- The creative vibe, atmosphere and the people
- The endless things to do, parties and events to go to every single week.
- Museums and exhibitions
- Awesome food
- Soho and the lower east side shops

FS: If you have 24 hours to spend in New York City, what will your perfect day be like - what will you do, what will you eat, where will you shop?

AO: I'd head out to Williamsburg for some awesome brunch at Egg and grab coffee at Blue Bottle. Then some shopping along the lower east and Soho, paying a visit to Aritzia, Odin, Creatures of Comfort, Urban outfitters etc. Then walk along the high-line with my favorite Pink Berry (froyo) in hand. I'd round it off with dinner & drinks with my best friend at any of the quirky cool restaurants in the west village and then call it a day.

FS: As a Singaporean designer, what are your favourite and least favourite things about our local fashion scene? And which aspect(s) of the New York fashion scene do you think Singapore should strive to emulate?

AO:
- Favorite: The flourishing pool of local designers with aspirations and ambitions.
- Least Favorite: Locals favoring international brands over local brands.
- I don't think we need to 'follow' NY, but rather, develop and cultivate our own culture and people, which in my opinion, is the main factor in contributing to the local fashion scene.

FS: What is one question that you wish people will ask you during an interview?


AO: I get nervous with interviews so I usually don't hope they ask me anything too difficult, but questions about my inspirations...I like to talk about those because they are so varied.

FS: What is one question that you wish people will never ask you during an interview?


AO: Anything about politics.

FS: If you ever write a memoir of your fashion career, what will be its title?

AO: I'll let you know if I ever do.

FS: In your opinion, what is the greatest fashion sin one can commit?

AO: Disrespecting a dress code.

FS: If you absolutely have to wear one of the following, which one will you pick? Leggings as pants OR a fanny pack.

AO: Can I wear a tunic to cover the leggings? If not, I guess I'd have to go with a fanny pack!